Film Reviews
Photo courtesy of Paul Elledge Photography

The popularity of the streaming series “The Bear,” dramatizing the stressful, unforgiving, upscale kitchen environment of this fictional Chicago restaurant, has renewed attention to culinary brilliance. And among the real legendary chefs of the world, in and beyond Chicago, include Charlie Trotter, profiled in writer/director Rebecca Halpern’s documentary “Love, Charlie: The Rise and Fall of Chef Charlie Trotter.”   

Opening Charlie Trotter’s in August 1987, he believed and proved that “People strive for quality and excellence.” Delivering that, of course, requires a hefty sacrifice in terms of the time and energy essential to achieve perfection, as confirmed by his three Michelin stars. Charlie, his family, and staff paid the price for his epicurean mastery. Interviews with Charlie’s first wife (Lisa Ehrlich), his mother, his sister, chefs Emeril Lagasse, Carrie Nahabedian, Wolfgang Puck, Ray Harris, and Grant Achatz (of the 3-star Michelin restaurant Alinea) provide candid insights into Charlie’s obsessive, demanding work ethic as well as his passion to excel. He is, absolutely, a mesmerizing highflyer.

Commentary and archival footage, including personal letters, establish Charlie’s never tolerating mediocrity for himself or others, creating difficult, but also stimulating collaboration. Notably, he inspired a generation of chefs in the U.S. and globally. Integrated throughout “Love, Charlie,” home movies of his early years provide ample visual evidence of his athletic talent and risk taking. In that regard, Charlie was a visionary, championing farm-to-table and vegetarian offerings years before others followed suit. On the other hand, his staff sued him for overtime pay and abusive labor practices. Yes, Charlie Trotter was, as several say, an enigma with this overview reinforcing the complex, creative genius archetype.   

As extensive as it is, several additions would expand the profile. Absent are comments from his second and third wives, his son, and a fuller range of employees. Moreover, Trotter’s considerable philanthropic work receives acknowledgement only in the end credits. Most significantly, since Trotter’s triumphs were his exquisite creations, informative details describing them would have enhanced our appreciation. This is a documentary that would have benefitted from a running time longer than its hour thirty-six minutes. Still, “Love, Charlie” presents a solid, wide-ranging description of the renowned, remarkable chef Charlie Trotter.

Full disclosure, as Charlie Trotter’s counted down to the restaurant’s closing New Year’s Day 2012, in August that year I enjoyed the incomparable pleasure of an extraordinary Charlie Trotter meal. To this day, it is among my most memorable dining experiences. Rest in peace, Charlie. You’ve earned it. “Love, Charlie” streams exclusively on Netflix beginning August 1, 2024.

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